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Throughout
recorded history the southern part of Tyrol has been of
enormous strategic importance as the confluence of three
important Alpine routes connecting Italy with northern Europe.
There is evidence that the early inhabitants made the transformation
from hunter-gatherers to farmers long before the Roman conquest
of the region in 15 BC and when they arrived the Romans
found an advanced wine culture. South Tyrol became part
of the Roman Alpine province of Rhaetia and its wines soon
became notorious in Rome, especially after the route Via
Claudia Augusta was built connecting central Italy with
northern Europe. It passed Tramin and Kaltern, leading to
the north-west via the Vinschgau valley.
It was reported by the Roman historian Pliny that Rhaetian
wine was stored and transported in wooden containers held
together by iron hoops at a time when the ancient Greeks
and Romans were still using earthenware amphoras or leather
bag-like containers.
After the fall of the western Roman Empire the region became
populated by Goths and Langobards and from the 8th century
onwards religious establishments in southern Germany began
to acquire woodland, clear it and plant vines. The bishop
of Freising in Bavaria acquired vineyards near Bozen in
720 AD and from then on it was the Church which furthered
wine-growing in these sunny valleys. Wine was used both
in the celebration of the Mass and as a source of calories
and soon became an important trading commodity between north
and south. Eventually 12 bishoprics and over 40 monasteries
in southern Germany owned vineyards in South Tyrol.
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South Tyrol’s wines were mentioned in numerous medieval
documents: an edict of Emperor Charles IV counted ‘Poczener’
(wine from Bozen) among the Holy Roman Empire’s five best
wines and a land register at the monastery of Tegernsee (Bavaria)
mentions Muskateller, Vernatsch and Lagrein as the best wines
at that time. Traminer wine was mentioned in 1361 when it was
served during the meeting between Duke Rudolf of Austria and Meinhard
III of Tyrol. South Tyrol became part of Austria in 1363 and with
the exception of a brief period during the Napoleonic Wars it
remained so until 1919. It was during the Napoleonic Wars that
the name ‘Alto Adige’ first emerged in 1810, referring
to the Adige Valley north of Verona. It was later resurrected
in 1919 as the official Italian name of South Tyrol.
Vineyards were secularised in the wake of the Napoleonic Wars
and the first wine merchants appeared around 1840. The opening
of the Brenner railway during the 1860s provided an enormous boost
to wine trading with other parts of Austria.
When the phylloxera appeared at the end of the 19th century South
Tyrol’s wine industry was well prepared, though once the
epidemic had been overcome the next disaster struck in the form
of the annexation of the southern part of Tyrol by Italy in 1919.
In one blow the region was severed from its traditional markets
in Austria and Germany and had to fight competition on its new
home market, Italy, one of the world’s largest wine producing
nations.
A period of renewed stability began after World War II, though
unfortunately a large number of producers began working in pursuit
of quantity rather than quality. High yielding clones of the traditional
Vernatsch vine were planted, which by the 1970s accounted for
well over half of South Tyrol’s wine production. Lagrein,
the region’s premium native red variety was used above all
to add colour to these anaemic wines rather than to make rich
and structured red wine in its own right. To make matters worse,
numerous wineries in South Tyrol had become mere processing plants
for commercial Italian wines destined for German speaking markets.
Vineyard yields soared. In the early years of the 20th century
an annual average of 300,000 to 350,000 hectolitres of wine were
produced from 9100 hectares of vineyard. By 1970, in years with
abundant grape harvests, up to 700,000 hectolitres were produced
from a vineyard area which had contracted to 5400 hectares. Exports
to Austria, Germany and Switzerland had also risen to over 800,000
hectolitres, though the greater part was cheap wine from elsewhere
in Italy.
Inevitably these practices had a detrimental effect both on the
image of South Tyrolean wine and on grape prices. During the 1980s
prices for South Tyrolean fruit increased rapidly and it soon
became far more profitable for growers to produce apples. Vineyards
in some of the finest sites were grubbed up and converted into
orchards and today South Tyrol accounts for 10 percent of total
European Union apple production while its wine production is a
tiny 0.2 percent of the EU total.